A Wild and Windswept Place: Brooks Peninsula by Dinghy, Part 1

Ancient Cedars, puffins, sea lion colonies, alpine lakes and the juiciest wild berries I have ever seen – The Brooks Peninsula is an enormous un-developed, un-logged, roadless and nearly trail-less hunk of Pacific Northwest rainforest and mountains thrusting out to sea off the northwest coast of Vancouver Island. After we visited it’s southern side on … More A Wild and Windswept Place: Brooks Peninsula by Dinghy, Part 1

Around Vancouver Island part 8: Vargas Island, Tsunami Debris, and the Journey Home

The islands at the mouth of Clayoquot Sound are certainly more well known than some of the other areas we visited, and in the summer have a consistent traffic of whale watching boats and float planes humming overhead. They are still, however, strikingly unaltered and beautiful with their impossibly long stretches of windswept sand, giant … More Around Vancouver Island part 8: Vargas Island, Tsunami Debris, and the Journey Home

Around Vancouver Island part 7: Nootka Reefs, Waterfalls and Hot Springs

Continuing our journey south down the west coast of Vancouver Island, our next stop would be somewhere along the west coast of Nootka Island. The rabid surf enthusiasts among us – everyone except me, were hoping to find some clean peeling waves down the west side of Nootka. As we sailed briskly along through the … More Around Vancouver Island part 7: Nootka Reefs, Waterfalls and Hot Springs

Round Vancouver Island part 6: Caves, shipwrecks, storms and waves

After leaving the Tatchu peninsula, we continued to make our way south down the coast towards Nootka island, through thick wet fog. The fog was disorientating, obscuring the horizon and all the landscape, leaving you in a shifting, rolling world of confused waves and white nothingness. We quickly grew tired of swaying and bobbing through … More Round Vancouver Island part 6: Caves, shipwrecks, storms and waves

Round Vancouver Island part 5: Tatchu Peninsula and catching our first salmon

The town of Kyuquot is a collection of wood buildings perched around the sea, docks jutting out into the mist. A dirt path weaving though front yards of houses is the main thoroughfare on one side of the cove. Small aluminium boats zigzag back and forth across the bay. The entrance to the cove is … More Round Vancouver Island part 5: Tatchu Peninsula and catching our first salmon

Around Vancouver Island part 4: Brooks Peninsula and Our First Beach Clean-Up

Here we are sitting inside to have a break from the hot sun of the past few days. Jonty is frying up some Lingcod for dinner, and a warm wind is whistling down off the mountains of the Brooks Peninsula over our boat bobbing in Columbia Cove. We weren’t sure if we would be sailing … More Around Vancouver Island part 4: Brooks Peninsula and Our First Beach Clean-Up

Around Vancouver Island part 3: Rounding Cape Scott to Sea Otter Cove

After stocking up with as much food and fuel as possible and leaving Port Hardy to round the top of the island, we cast off up Goletas Channel and found ourselves in a thick fog and utter lack of wind. The time had come to switch on our 1980’s era radar. Shifting neon green shapes … More Around Vancouver Island part 3: Rounding Cape Scott to Sea Otter Cove

Around Vancouver Island part 2: Desolation Sound to the Broughton Archipelago

After a morning swimming and shore exploring in the small bay on Cortes, we said goodbye to the crew of the Clair de Lune and set off to reach Yuculta Rapids at slack tide. Water passing through the narrow passages of this part of the coast often creates powerful tidal currants and whirlpools that can … More Around Vancouver Island part 2: Desolation Sound to the Broughton Archipelago